Man of Pork, Man of God: Redman's Chicken and Rib

    For years now, I have looked for restaurants, roadside stands and out-of-the-way places that offer great food and drinks in a way that's different from the hordes of corporate American dumps.  I do this because I believe that there are Americans, both born and adopted, that are bringing this country great things, right on our plates.  Tonight, I was reminded of this quest by a shining smile, a percolating iced tea machine and some old guy absolutely destroying a spectacular looking burger.

    This is Redman's, a roadside eatery, which is part shack, part smokehouse and all love.  Redman, joined by his wife Kelly, serve up righteous barbequed ribs along with old school fried chicken and a host of other tasty soul-inspired dishes.  I knew I was in the right place when I approached and found some very faithful quotations, and a large sign that reads "This is America...This is My dream."  An opening like that, along with the rich smell of smokey pig parts, pretty much immediately confirmed for me the importance of tasting the food.

    The opening salvo came in the form of Redman's smokey, salty, succulent and tasty Ham Shank Sandwich.  This beast comes with a huge serving of pulled ham shank meat, a sweetish sauce, lettuce, tomato and mayo and gets finished off with a melted slice of American cheese.  All of these luscious ingredients are stowed between two think slices of toasted Texas toast.  I have since come to understand that in addition to the Ham Shank Sandwich, pretty much all of Redman's sandwiches and burgers come mounted up this way, which as far as I can tell is just about right.  Truly, this was one of those food experiences that make a man remember why God endowed us with the blessings of pork in the first place.

    Along with their outrageous sandwiches, Redman and his crew make up some of the best fried chicken in the Finger Lakes, in addition to some very original, whole-cut ribs.  Redman's ribs aren't sectioned off into their smaller parts, like almost everyone else.  Instead, you get the whole cut, from babyback to spare, all covered in a sweet and spicy sauce which is heavy on black pepper and slicked with pork fat.  They are slightly smoky, but done more in an oven roasted style, rather than the more traditional barbeque.

    Served with these southern soul morsels, you also find some very thoughtful sides.  Of course you can get get the usual mac and cheese, cole slaw and potato salad, but you can also find some excellent collard greens, bathed in a sweet hot juice, flavored heavily with red pepper.  At Redman's you can also get rice and gravy as well as a great slightly sweet corn muffin.

    As if that weren't enough to get your soul and palate right with God, you can also find a selection of southern inspired desserts as well.  The two that stand out are the banana pudding, a long standing favorite of southern society, and the even more renowned sweet potato pie.  The pie found a home with me instantly based on texture alone.  Sweet potato pie is easily flavored like a pumpkin pie, but not as easily coaxed into a proper texture.  Redman's pie has a velvety smoothness, complimented by a firm, but yielding body that truly makes it a fine finish to any one of their offerings. 

Thanks for reading...now go eat!

-E

Brass Tacks:  Jackson and Hamilton, please.
Address:  777 Pre Emption Rd, Geneva N.Y.
Parking:  Park in the driveway, and wave at all the traffic.
Website:  Sadly, none.